Cappadocia

Most people give Cappadocia one rushed day and see the balloons from a hotel roof. Three days is the version worth flying for. Here is every spot from our map, in order, with the bits nobody tells you.

Day 1Go underground

Kaymaklı Underground City

An entire city carved down into soft volcanic rock, levels of it, connected by tunnels you have to duck through. It is cooler underground than outside, which is a relief in summer. Go at opening. By late morning the narrow sections turn into a queue you cannot turn around in.

Go at opening Entry price: add yours

Uçhisar, for the evening

The castle rock sits above the whole valley and the view at golden hour is the one you will keep. Climb it first, then stay in the village to eat rather than driving back to Göreme for dinner.

Golden hour Where we ate: add it

Day 2The balloons

The landing spot

This is the one worth saving. You do not have to pay to fly to get the shot. This is where the balloons come down, and at sunrise you stand underneath while they land around you. It is free, and it is a different photo from every hotel roof in Göreme.

38°39'44.4"N 34°49'45.7"E

Free Sunrise What time we got there: add it

Sunset Wine, for dinner

A terrace pointed at the valley. Book ahead and ask for a table on the edge, and get there well before the sun actually goes down, because the good tables fill first and the light is best in the half hour before.

Book ahead Arrive early

Day 3Slow it down

Harem Cappadocia

A real cave hotel rather than a normal build with a stone feature wall. The rooms are cut into the rock, which keeps them cold, so bring something warm for the evening even in summer. Worth staying somewhere like this for at least one night rather than treating the hotel as just a bed.

Uçhisar What we paid: add it